The swell of the century does sound its call and all of us surfers come hither enthralled to stare at the beauty of the pounding waves to dare to wade out in an hypnotic daze. This isn't a lie here it's not a tall tale about those Grigovian high-mountain vales so please do just skip this one, give me a pass, forgive my glaring and base lack of class. The surfboard is mounted the gas-tank is full and such is the majestic incessant pull of those big-old breakers there pounding the sand that I will now bring this here piece to an end.
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